So we finally arrived in Phonsavan after our crushing minibus ride. I was determined to leave by bus, even if it was more expensive than the minibus, because it was a lot more comfortable. We arrived and were offered a very cheap room in a hotel. We were shipped off there and indeed got a room for around 40,000 kip. Jessica met a Slovenian girl and an American woman who wanted to share a room with her to cut costs. They would spend most of the time fighting each other. We wanted to go out and see all the jar sites the following day and we were immediately rang by a friend of the hotel who quoted us around 150,000 kip each for a tour. That was very expensive for us. We figured we could do it cheaper. After enquiring around the city we realised that it was not going to be possible. You can't really get a tuk tuk and the main tour company claimed that they would pay the permit for us (As far as we could see there was no permit and there certainly wasn't anyone checking permits when we got there). They even said there was a UNESCO tax, but I knew they had not been granted UNESCO status yet. Yet another lie. Another option was to take a motorbike but this was quite expensive as well. A bicycle would be a long way. All the tour agencies say that the first site is around 15km away and the others are further. Lonely Planet seemed to reaffirm this and I am beginning to believe that half of the stuff they put in the book is not actually researched on the ground as there are a lot of errors. We did some soul searching to see if we really wanted to do all three sites. In the end we decided that one would probably be enough and we decided that we would walk it the next day and then maybe take some bus expeditions afterwards. We decided to go to the MAG centre to watch some of the documentaries related to UXO (unexploded bombs). A giant tour group hired the cinema out so I had to wait an hour to watch the 'bombies' documentary. Cannelle and Jessica didn't mind missing the first 5 minutes so they went in straight away, but it irritates me so I decided to wait. The centre itself is very interesting and the documentaries are first class. We would't be able to watch the other 2 that day and if you are in town for only one evening, be aware that the timings are for three documentaries and not a repeat as LP seems to suggest. They are excellent. I would go so far to say that they are better than visiting the jars themselves.
In the morning we looked into buses. The hostels say they will do a minibus for 110,000 or a bus for 120,000. That seemed a little expensive. Not trusting any of the lying shit we get here (though in the North it is better) I walked to the bus station and found out it is only 90,000 and no slower than the minibus. It is also more comfortable and as usual you get more contact with locals. We decided to walk to jar site 1. 15km is very doable for us. In fact its only around 8-9km. There is also a mini golf on the way somewhere, but we didn't get to play. All the time the American had been getting super stressy with us, because she needed us for a discount on her tour. Why would I pay 150,000 when by walking I spent only 10,000 on the entrance. Massive difference and a really cheap day. The site is nice, but I think one would be enough. We didn't see anything in the surrounding hills to suggest the other sites would be in a stunning location. I also think they are closer than the 25km and 35km advertised, but I have no proof of this. Cannelle wanted to jump in a tuk tuk back as they offered us 10,000 kip each back to town, so we only walked 9km, saw the major site and paid 20,000 each in total. We went back to MAG and watched the other two documentaries. Essential viewing and also free. We went to sleep early as we had to catch the bus early in the morning. I don't think the hostel was too happy we didn't take their tour. On a side note Phonsavan was the only place where we never found an ATM that did not charge for withdrawals and so was the source of our only 20,000 kip withdrawal fee. The only one we never tried was the one on the road to the Plain of Jars. Its away from the tourist zone so maybe it will work.
We left early and walked the 4km to the bus station. We had only just arrived when the woman from the hostel came towards us telling us we must pay for the room. We told her that we had already paid, but she insisted that we must pay. Then she produced a receipt of an unpaid bill. The name on the bill was Ludovic Lopez, he was French and he had stayed in the same room as us the night before we arrived. I showed her my passport to show her that I wasn't French and that wasn't my name. She wanted to see Cannelle's even though it clearly said male on the form. Oh well why not humour her. She still said we must pay. I pointed out the dates. She still said we must pay. At this point we were getting angry and just ignored her. So she phoned a friend. The friend spoke to us in English and we explained how it was not our name, date or nationality and gave the phone back. You could then hear her arguing with him. That must be the end now. No. She came back again. You must pay. Fuck sake. We ignored her. Eventually she left. We were worried she had gone for the police. I am not sure if it was stupidity, desperation, not wanting to lose face or all three that prompted her to keep coming. Anyway no police arrived. If anyone knows Ludovic Lopez or you are reading this yourself please get in touch. I am dying to know if you actually forgot to pay or if she was just trying to squeeze money out of tourists. Anyway back to the bus, which only had 3 wheels. Fuck sake. Nothing simple. They even got us to board the bus with only three wheels. I figured we would probably need four wheels, but what do I know. Eventually we got started late and still only just arrived behind the minivan. We stopped about 30 minutes from Luang Prabang for a lovely view and food. They had venison. Fucking venison. Yet it was too expensive. We arrived after the long day and couldn't find anywhere cheap. Eventually we got a place with some bungalows and Jessica went looking for a dorm bed. I had left Peter a message to meet him for dinner, but when we finally got to check our e-mails we were too late for the time we were supposed to meet, so I suggested meeting the following morning at the bakery. It really was a pretty town. Shame we couldn't stay longer. One of the problems with the Vietnam visa is that you have to give an exact date of entry and then you have to enter the country on that date or you lose some of the days of your visa. We had set the 21st November and we really didn't have many days left. It was going to be tight. Everyone had told us Luang Prabang was shit. In my opinion everyone was wrong. The same as with Vientiane. We had one day there and we were going to have to pack a lot in.
In the morning we met Peter for breakfast and he said he didn't want to go to the waterfall. We agreed to meet to do the palace later and we would get the boat to Nong Khiaw the next day. We went to the corner in front of the tourist information to meet other people to get a tuk tuk to the waterfall. There we met 4 Russians and a Dutch couple. One guy was going to take the nine of us, until his colleague realised he had noone and after a brief discussion we learnt that the limit was eight people. Ah convenient or more bullshit. Not really sure, but if you are reading this and going then if they say the limit is six or seven let me know as I am curious. Anyway we went with the Dutch couple as they were the first to come back from their hotel. We had a nice time with them for the morning. The park is very beautiful. Like a small Plitvice. The girls hadn't brought their swimming costumes, but I had so I was able to go in the water, even if it was quite cold. Its a pleasant place to swim. At the final waterfall you can hike to the top, but noone seems to bother. With my obsession of climbing high places I was obviously going to go. We hiked up the left. I was in my sandals. Its a steepish climb, but not too long. There is no real reward to it besides some exercise and some brief views. Beware the leeches as well. When we realised they were there I panicked as I was in sandals without my usual sock defense. One even climbed onto my foot, but failed to bite me. Scary. Needless to say we got down quickly. As beautiful as the waterfalls are the highlight was the feeding of the black bears at 12 or 12.30pm. I can't remember exactly. Its really cool to watch their interactions and hunting for food as they have a rescue centre in the park. I got back just in time at 2pm to do the palace with Peter. I found the palace a little underwhelming (like Bangkok), but its cheaper so why not. The cars and monk photos were boring. The palace was most notable for Peter's excitement at some moon rocks that the Americans had given the Laotians. Afterwards we went to get tickets for the boat, but they told us to come in the morning. You just need to be there about an hour before departure (8am). Everyone separated and I went to visit the most famous Wat (that adorns the cover of LP Laos) and then we met again to clinb the hill for sunset. Its really pretty, but very crowded up there. I also took a walk around the end of the island and its a really pretty town to go for a stroll around in. All of us were sad that we didn't have more time to enjoy it. On the way down I passed the Buddha's foot and then we all met (including the Dutch couple) to watch Salmon Fishing in Yemen in a bar. It was really good until the bar next door decided to play a thumping techno soundtrack. That I could cope with (though Jessica found it more difficult), but when they started rapping and cheering it was difficult to concentrate. I still think I got most of it. In the morning I bought a lot of pain au chocolats from the famous bakery (which are really good) and we boarded the boat to Nong Khiaw. We were off to the last part of Laos.
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